(http://www.teensunderground.com/) Oct. 9 (Bloomberg) -- Paris-based designer Andrew Gn's collection for next spring includes white brocade coats, embroidered tunics and silk chiffon gowns accented with amethysts because ``only really beautiful things can speak right now.'Designers and retailers are counting on special touches, such as white leather knee-high boots cut to resemble lace and python jackets, to lure customers now that conspicuous consumption is out of style during the global financial crisis.What we know is that there will be a spring, and we have stores that need to be filled,'' Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion director for Neiman Marcus, said. ``People are looking for `special' and that's what we're looking for, as well.'' Designers tried to deliver just that in the fashions they sent down the runways in Paris last week. Chanel's Karl Lagerfeld stayed close to the brand's classic black-and-white color scheme, but added a modern flair: suit jackets had voluminous, sculptural shapes and evening gowns were decorated with swags of beading. John Galliano's collection for Christian Dior was full of thigh-skimming skirts and dresses, followed by diaphanous silk gowns in bright shades of yellow, blue, and orange. He showed jackets in leather and python. At Hermes, scarf dresses were accessorized with wide leather belts, tall boots, and cowboy hats -- a rare mix of luxury and Western motifs.

For Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs created a collection that held nothing back. Tight jackets and short skirts in rich colors were accessorized to the hilt: chunky jewelry, large handbags, and high heels that tied around the ankles with feathers, tassels and beads. Broader Base Designers and retailers at the shows said that they are broadening their customer base to protect themselves in a downtrodden economy.Issey Miyake has opened a new store on the Rue Royale, near the Place de la Concorde in Paris.

``A boutique in the center of Paris was important for us because we want more tourists,'' said Nobuyuki Ota, the Tokyo- based president of Issey Miyake Inc. Three smaller stores in the city were closed to concentrate on the new one. Ota sees the U.S. customer as only a fraction of his market. Even if they lost money on Wall Street, there are still customers around the world,'' he said. ``In the Middle East, China, and other upcoming markets, they are eager to have new merchandise. For them, new things are exciting. Europe and America are tired.'Sharper Eye

Wealthy fashionistas in the U.S. are likely to keep spending, but with a sharper eye. The social schedule of our customer will not change,'' said Ann Watson, fashion director of New York's Henri Bendel, who expects a strong market for cocktail dresses balanced by some weak spots. Our customer may pull back on day wear,'' she said.Still, Cyril Rahon, a buyer for Galeries Lafayette, plans to focus on a staple item: jackets. Among the designers he buys is Celine.It's a brand that seduces customers with excellent fabric, from a cashmere coat to good pants,'' he said.

Some retailers are hoping reverse psychology kicks in and consumers spend more in tough times. Anyone who steps into Bloomingdale's is looking to escape. That's how it's always been,'' said Stephanie Solomon, fashion director for the New York department store. But Robert Burke Jr., a New-York based retail consultant said retailers should count on only one thing about shoppers for next spring: ``It's got to be spectacular for them to buy it.''